In the first part of this series, we examined the treatment of injuries associated with rock climbing from the perspective of Western healing. In part two, we will look at rock climbing and related injuries from the Eastern perspective.
Eastern Perspective
In traditional Chinese medicine, factors that contribute to sprains include qi and blood stagnation (eventually leading to liver/kidney yin deficiency), spleen qi deficiency (creating accumulation of dampness), and invasion of external pathogens (wind, cold and damp) into the channels/meridian/vessels.
To differentiate between acute and chronic injuries, we must determine external versus internal origins of the mechanism of injury. Acute injuries reflect external direct or indirect trauma, whereas chronic injuries represent internal pre-existing problems that allow the external pathogens to invade more easily, disrupting the circulation of qi and blood in that specific location.
Because the injury mechanism tends to be chronic, the focus of the following primary treatment is as follows. One can add in point combinations that support this primary treatment of the underlying condition(s). There are three components to examine: the local points (for the affected area); the distal points (for pre-existing/underlying conditions); and the back shu (transporting) points (for treating deficiency conditions and other factors). Reiterating the point, depending upon the individual climber, any specific injuries and underlying conditions, there are many point combination possibilities that can be used in addition to the local, distal and back shu points.
Additional Points
An example of a typical formula that can be used is as follows:
I also will apply Tiger Balm and white flower oil (or any other heating liniment) along the affected channels, then apply tui na to the affected muscled to stimulate movement of qi.
A few of the following points can be added in order to support this current treatment.
Qi/Blood Stagnation
The treatment principle is to maintain the flow of qi and blood circulation. By maintaining the flow of qi/blood, the physiological manifestation of injuries and pain are non-existent. However, if this qi/blood become stagnant, the flow within the channels/meridians/vessels around the affected joint becomes obstructed, creating pain in the affected area(s). The main physiological manifestation includes pain that is stabbing and fixed for blood stagnation, and wandering and distended for qi stagnation.
Sedating method should be used on all points. Use xiao huo luo dan or jin gu die shang wan (muscle and bone traumatic injury pill).
Liver/Kidney Deficiency
The treatment principle is to support the tendons by nourishing them through liver blood, and the kidneys nourish the bones. Over years of climbing, training long hours, environmental conditions and stress, the qi and blood get depleted or consumed; specifically, the qi and blood involving the zang/fu organs of the liver and kidneys. In either case, the lack of nourishment of both the tendons and bones gives rise to finger joint injuries. Age is a factor because, as we get older, the liver/kidney functions decline and the kidney jing and liver blood are unable to nourish the tendons and bones as efficiently as previously noticed in recovery after a climb.
Wind, Cold, Damp Invasion of the Joints
Wind, cold and damp pathogens can invade through the joints because that is where qi enters and exits. Wind presents with pain moving from joint to joint. Cold can create qi and blood stagnation because it constricts the flow of qi and blood within the channels/meridians/vessels and tendons, so the climber presents with severe finger pain. Dampness can create obstructions within the channels/meridians/vessels, due to the accumulation from spleen qi deficiency. The climber feels heaviness due to the damp accumulation, leading to stagnation, when the climber will feel fixed pain, swelling with a heavy sensation, and possible numbness in the phalanges and wrist joint.
Wind
Sedating method
Cold
Sedating method
Damp
In summary, in order to treat injuries specific to rock climbing, the clinical management should not only include the symptoms of both mechanical and functional instabilities, but also address the integration of TCM, emphasizing the prevention and reducing the risk of chronic rock climbing injuries. To truly integrate both diagnostic methodologies, one must be well-versed in the philosophy behind TCM and understand and appreciate the biomechanical components, anatomy and kinesiology of the wrist, hand and finger joints. Implementing TCM perspectives into the treatment strategy for these climbers proves beneficial and ultimately essential in treating as truly preventing injuries from occurring.
Treating with TCM is extremely effective when applied in conjunction with TCM philosophy. Protocol treatments, which are unfortunately greatly represented both academically and clinically, seem to be more predominant as a typical symptom/sign-based treatment. That is not what Oriental medicine espouses. Acupuncture is like geometry - there are many different diagnostic methodologies that can be implemented in developing an acupuncture prescription - the key is understanding and having the ability to modify treatments accordingly to the individual.
References
Chronic pain afflicts over 20% of the adult population. Sadly, most MDs have essentially no education in treating pain, beyond offering a few toxic medications. Then they tend to steer people with pain away from those health practitioners who are trained. This puts the acupuncture community on the front lines for addressing this epidemic.
When the body is going through a stressful event, the sympathetic system is activated. This activation will help the body with a life-threatening situation. If this state is activated for prolonged periods of time, it starts to consume energy. These traumatic events that generate stressors in the autonomic nervous system (ANS) will eventually become internalized.
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One of the things that makes acupuncture so difficult to measure is that the medicine actually does contain some esoteric aspects. There have been numerous studies that demonstrate the neurochemical reasoning behind why acupuncture points stimulate the autonomic nervous system to enact change However, not all the benefits of TCM can easily be measured by randomized, controlled trials. But does that make them fundamentally and definitively untrue?
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