Microneedling has become very popular in our profession as a form of treating skin-level concerns. As an educator of facial and cosmetic acupuncture, I am frequently asked how it fits within our scope of practice.
The use of needles to beautify the skin has been part of Chinese medicine for thousands of years. In Chinese, the practice is referred to as mei rong, which translates to "beautiful appearance." This holistic regimen, practiced throughout Asia for centuries, has been used to promote systemic wellness and delay visible signs of aging.
Although the terminology and tools are slightly different, microneedling (also known as collagen induction therapy) is almost identical in principle and practice to circling the dragon to treat scars; or using intradermal needles or a seven-star hammer / plum blossom needle to treat hair loss and skin concerns such as wrinkles and dyschromia.
Seven-star hammers are used in Chinese medicine to treat blood stagnation, neuropathy, scars, and alopecia.1 Intradermal needles (small needles typically inserted with tweezers) are inserted superficially, bringing blood and qi to the skin and stimulating proliferation of collagen. Techniques such as threading and surrounding the dragon with acupuncture needles release stagnation and fascial adhesions, and encourage regrowth of healthy skin cells. Microneedling with a micropen, derma roller or derma stamp mimics these techniques with modern devices.
One of the principles of Chinese medicine emphasizes the connection and harmony of the body in which the external "skin" is closely related to the internal "organs." Therefore, stimulation of the skin has been used to stimulate internal organs to restore balance in the body.
When I teach or practice microneedling, I do so as a holistic practice, incorporating TCM and Five-Element diagnosis and treatment of the entire body. Body points help to build qi, yin, bones, and blood, and move stagnant fluids, qi and blood. In order to treat the outside, you must treat the inside and vice versa.
Microneedling, aka collagen induction therapy, works by stimulating the immune system and wound-healing mechanisms. As the microneedles penetrate the skin, causing micro-wounds, it triggers an intense inflammatory reaction that begins a cascade of subsequent reactions.
The skin's nerve receptors and defense mechanisms sense these fine-needle intrusions as a specific type of injury and heal accordingly. During the healing process, skin cells (within a 1-2 mm radius around the pricking channel) release growth signals to undifferentiated cells, otherwise known as skin stem cells. These signals also stimulate rapid growth of new fibroblasts and other wound-repairing cells.
Many cell types including new fibroblasts rush to close the wound by migrating to the point of intrusion. These new fibroblasts then transform into collagen fibers, which integrate with existing collagen in the upper dermis.
The new collagen fibers thicken the skin, fill in wrinkles and encourage growth of healthy new skin cells. This process works with your body's natural healing ability and will keep your skin looking young and vibrant.
Thus, microneedling treats the skin with the insertion of needles in the same way that intradermal needles, threading, needles or seven-star hammer treats the skin. It is a superficial-level treatment like any cosmetic acupuncture treatment; and when combined with diagnosis and treatment of underlying issues, can affect a deeper-level change.
Author's Note: I've included a sampling of microneedling studies below. My company website, aculiftskincare.com, also features several blog posts on microneedling and derma rolling.
Reference
Studies on Microneedling
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